1.STROLL - along the esplanade by to the sea, from Eleftherias Square (have a look at the Holocaust memorial while you are there) to the Megaro Musikis. It’s magical from dawn to dusk, in rain or shine. 2.BUY a freshly-made “trigono” from Elinidis (corner of Tsimiski and Gounari), eat it immediately, in the street, and lick your fingers. 3.CLIMB the hill to the Upper Town and find the tiny Church of Nikolaos Orfanos (Irodotou 20) which contains heart-stoppingly beautiful frescoes. 4.MARVEL at the magnificent Rotunda of Galerius (designed to be a mausoleum, used as a church, transformed into a mosque). 5.VISIT the Jewish Museum (Agiou Mina 13) for the tragic story of the city’s once thriving Jewish population. 6.SHOP in Mitropoleos Street for a dress - and have it tailored to fit by a resident seamstress - for men, buy a shirt somewhere. 7.BRAVE the strange atmosphere of the birthplace of Mustafa Kemal, the founder of Modern Turkey (Apostolou Pavlou 75) 8.BREATHE in the aroma and atmosphere of the bustling Modiano Market (near Ermou). 9.LISTEN to rebetika over dinner at Tombourblika (Naumaxias Limnou 14). 10.DRINK coffee at Thermaikos on the seafront (Leoforos Nikis 21) and gaze at Mount Olympus.